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Quality Hobby Shop

www.QualityHobbyShop.com
General Tips
Choosing A Model / What's My Skill?
Assembling The Model
Painting The Model
Detailing The Model
Applying Decals
Using an Airbrush
Things You'll Need
General Tips
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Newcomers to
the hobby should choose a simple to build kit for their first two or three
models. This gives you valuable experience and a finished model quite quickly.
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Don’t give
up on a project if things go wrong as you build it. Get it finished as best
you can even if it’s totally messed up!. Get experience painting your
finished masterpiece even if its not perfect because it will help the
next time.
Choosing
A Model
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Look for a
model at the proper skill level. Think about the person the model is intended
for - his interests, his hobbies, his personal history.
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Consider what
attracts the person's interest. For example, he might have a favorite race
car driver, and a model of that driver's car would be an appropriate choice.
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Look around
the person's house. Notice the character of the models that have been assembled
and seek out one of similar style.
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Check the manufacturer's
name on the person's assembled models to learn the type and quality he prefers.
Ask for recommendations from a friend or relative of the person you're buying
the model for.
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Remember that
model kits aren't confined to cars, ships and airplanes. Perhaps a model
of the Saturn moon rocket or the starship Enterprise would appeal.
What’s
My Skill?
Revell, Testors,
AMT and other model kits feature a skill level on the packaging-1, 2, or 3-which
will help you identify the amount of skill and/or model building experience
needed to allow the builder to get the full enjoyment from the kit. Let's look
at each of them a bit more closely: (Revell AG has 5 skill levels)
Skill 1-Basic-No
painting, No glue necessary-Ages 8 and up
Skill Level 1 kits are molded in color, so no painting is needed to have a good
looking replica when finished. They also are engineered to snap together without
requiring the use of glues or cements. Skill Level 1 kits also typically feature
a smaller number of parts as well as not too many very small parts. They're
aimed at the younger builder as well as someone of any age that may not have
too much model building experience or someone getting back into modeling after
a number of years. Skill Level 1 kits also feature "peel and stick"
type markings instead of the waterslide type decal found in our Skill Level
2 and 3 kits. No water, No glue, No paint, No mess!
Skill 2-Intermediate-Paint
and Glue needed-Ages 10 and up
This is the largest group of kits and are by far our most popular model kits.
Most are molded in a neutral color such as white to make it easier to paint,
as most traditional modelers prefer to do. The molded color will appear in the
information section on the boxside as well as the approximate number of parts
contained in the kit. The greater the part count, the greater the number of
smaller parts and thus, the greater the detail. Glue or cement will be needed
to assemble the parts of your kit. Skill Level 2 kits also feature traditional
waterslide type decals. Waterslide decals offer greater detail, more colors
and are much thinner than peel and stick markings for more realism.
Skill 3-Advanced-Paint
and Glue needed-Ages 12 and up
Skill Level 3 kits are our most advanced kits and offer an appropriate level
of detail and authenticity. Frequently extra parts are also supplied for multiple
building versions. We suggest the builder have some previous model building
experience before tackling a Skill Level 3 kit due to the complexity of some
of the assemblies and/or the multiple color painting schemes needed. Skill Level
3 kits also require glue or cement for assembly and feature waterslide decal
sets, some of which are quite elaborate.
Skill 4,
5- kits are the most advanced
They offer an appropriate level of detail and authenticity, they usually require
extensive work with the interior/engine details of the model kit. Frequently
extra parts are also supplied for multiple building versions. We suggest the
builder have some previous model building experience before tackling a Skill
Level 3,4,5 kit due to the complexity of some of the assemblies and/or the multiple
color painting schemes needed. Skill Level 3,4,5 kits also require glue or cement
for assembly and feature waterslide decal sets, some of which are quite elaborate.
Assembling
the Model
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You need a
large table with adequate lighting.
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Familiarize
yourself with the instructions.
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Cut, rather
than break, individual parts from the plastic trunks or sprues.
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Compare the
parts included, to the list of parts needed.
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Clean up the
parts using sandpaper to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from manufacturing,
then wash them in a mild detergent and allow to dry.
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Collect your
tools.
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Follow the
parts assembly sequence exactly.
Tips
-Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond.
-Enhance your assembled model by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding
the filled surface.
Painting
The Model
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Do your research
if you're building a replica. Every era has incorporated its own style.
A replica of a Model T painted pink would not be an accurate model of the
original car but then again it might also be what most reflects your vision.
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Check Internet
sources for pictures and tips.
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Get active
in a modeler's club and learn hands-on tips from more experienced modelers.
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Plan your paint
scheme if you're crafting your own design. If you want to design your own
conception of a muscle car, for example, you should sketch out the design
first.
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Work on a clean
surface.
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Clean your
model. Use rubbing alcohol as a cleaner and then let the model dry thoroughly
to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.
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Construct a
simple paint stand from scrap material.
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Put the model
or model part on a paint stand or on a drop cloth.
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Shake the spray
can thoroughly to mix paint properly.
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Test the nozzle
by spraying a piece of cardboard or other scrap.
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Plan on multiple
thin coats rather than one thick coat.
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Start spraying
to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model
before you stop.
Tips
-Aerosol spray paints are good, but you may want to invest in an airbrush system
as you grow in the hobby.
-Bright, shiny finishes can be achieved by painting the desired color, letting
the model dry, lightly sanding with 1200-grit sandpaper until the finish dulls,
spraying with a clear coat, lightly sanding again and then finishing with a
buffing compound.
-Complete the detail work as necessary with fine-tipped artist brushes.
-Some modelers claim better results by thinning enamels with lacquer thinner
rather than mineral spirits. You must spray a lacquer-based primer. Usually
any automotive sand-able primer works.
-Paint in a ventilated area and wear a painter's mask.
-Some models, have the finish painted on the inside of a clear plastic body.
-Many experienced modelers suggest using primers when painting with acrylics.
Detailing
The Model
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Check your
model finish to determine whether water-based acrylic or petroleum-based
paints will serve better.
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Remember that
you'll need sandpaper to prepare the surface to be painted.
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Use rubbing
alcohol to remove skin oils and other contaminants from your model. Use
alcohol as a cleanser only after testing it on a piece of scrap.
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Handle your
clean, ready-to-paint model only while wearing gloves.
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Note that beginning
modelers most often use aerosol paints. Choose a quality brand.
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Remember that
some model-painting projects will require brushes. Find soft, flexible brushes
and keep them clean.
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Invest in an
airbrush painting system when you're ready to take the next step in the
modeling hobby.
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Read, read,
read. Check modelers magazines and the Internet to learn what works and
what doesn't.
Applying
Decals
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Wait until
the model's paint finish has dried a full 24 hours before applying decals.
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Start by cleaning
the area on your model where the decal is to be applied. Dish detergent
or rubbing alcohol should work nicely.
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Soak a water-slide
decal until it can be moved with a very gentle touch.
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Plan carefully
the point of application - a water-slide decal can only be moved a few millimeters.
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Rub the decal
gently with a rounded pen end while it's moist to remove bubbles.
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Use a needle
point to release air from bubbles produced as the decal dries and sets,
and then seal with clear lacquer.
Tips
-You can customize your model by applying aftermarket decals.
-Try soaking a self-adhesive decal in soapy water before application. The solution
will lubricate the surface sufficiently to allow you to position the decal,
but the decal should still adhere after it dries.
-Seal dry-transfer decals with a clear-coat paint.
-Hide the edge of decals on tires by applying a coat of clear gloss paint to
the tire first, letting it dry, and then applying the decal. Next, apply a second
coat of clear gloss over the decal and the rest of the tire.
-Some hobbyists suggest lightly misting the area of decal application with glass
cleaner, applying the decal, and then seating and positioning. Use this technique
only after experimenting on your model with a piece of scrap plastic.
Using an
Airbrush
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Use an airbrush
when you want to paint thin lines, cover large areas with an even coat,
highlight models with subtle changes of tone and mix unique colors.
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Make your first
airbrush a good-quality, single-action, external-mix unit with a compressor.
Move up to a double-action airbrush, which controls paint volume and air
volumewith a single lever, as you become more competent.
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Learn about
air compressors. Diaphragm compressors are inexpensive, but pulses of the
diaphragm can sometimes be seen in the paint finish. The best choice is
an automatic-reservoir compressor, which does not run constantly but maintains
the constant, steady pressure required.
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Remember, many
expert painters suggest that moisture traps and a gauged, pressure-regulating
valve are worthwhile accessories for a beginner's airbrush unit.
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Build a simple
paint booth with an exhaust fan. Keep a paint respirator handy and use it
faithfully.
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Be sure the
paint you are using is appropriate for the material used in the model's
construction. Some plastics require special paint.
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Check to see
whether a primer is necessary.
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Practice with
your new airbrush. Use scrap metal and plastic as target materials.
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Remember, the
key to getting an even finish is to start the airbrush to one side of the
target area, spray with an even stroke across it and go past the area before
releasing the trigger.
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Practice, using
scrap materials, other applications such as thin lines and shading from
one color to another.
Use white artist's tape, drafting tape or automotive-quality flexible masking
tape rather than over-the-counter masking tape, which may leave a residue
when removed.
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Avoid spraying
at an angle or with excessive force along tape-masked borders to keep paint
from leaking under the tape edge.
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Clean your
airbrush tip by spraying water, with a bit of liquid dishwashing soap added,
through it after painting with acrylic paints.
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Use common
rubbing alcohol to finish the job as necessary.
Tips
-Practice. Like any skill, painting with an airbrush comes easily to
those who practice most.
-Water-based acrylics have become the paint of choice for modelers who use high-quality,
major brands. Hobbyists can find premixed paint in authentic colors.
-Some hobbyists prefer carbon dioxide or nitrogen gas reservoir tanks for a
pressure source for airbrushes; however, inert-gas tanks must be refilled.
-Wear a paint mask when using an airbrush. Safety goggles are useful as well.
-Always use an airbrush in a well-ventilated area.
-Paint particles can overspray and damage other objects.
Things
You'll Need
-Elmer's Glue-All
-Needle-nose Pliers
-Nail Files
-Pliers
-Desk Lamps
-Metal Files
-Masking Tape
-Plastic Model/replica Kits
-Tables
-Airplane Glue
-Gripping Straight Tweezers
-Hobby Knives
-Magnifying Lamps
-Superglue
We
hope you found something useful and look forward to providing you with your
modeling needs.
As Revell says, BUILD YOUR DREAMS!
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